It depends largely on where you go and also on how much exposure you have received.
Contrary to what some might say, most dialects are mutually intelligible, even with minimal media exposure. However, there are some dialects - such as Maghrebi dialects (spoken in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and Libyan) that are difficult for most Middle Easterners.
Egyptian and Levantine are very widely understood, due to their prominence in media such as music, television, and films. Before I studied Moroccan Arabic, I used Egyptian Arabic sometimes while I was in Morocco, and I was understood generally well, though some people in rural areas were unfamiliar with some expressions. However, I understood relatively little of what they said (I had at least a B2 command of both MSA and Egyptian at that time). I'd pick up some phrases and some words but in general, intelligibility was low on my part.
On the other hand, after I had both Egyptian and MSA under my belt (although I continued working on both), I could understand plenty of Levantine, Hijazi, Sudanese, and Gulf Arabic. I would miss out on some expressions, and I had to get used to some of the phonological differences, but in general, if you know a Mashriqi dialect (Egyptian, Sudanese, Levantine, Iraqi, Gulf, Hijazi, Najdi, Yemeni), then you get an enormous discount on most other dialects of the Middle East. In all, I found the analogy of them being as distinct as separate languages as nonesense, since I found them far more interrelated than some people credit them to be.
Again, however, this changes when you get to the Maghrebi dialects, especially Moroccan and Algerian. In this case, I can understand Moroccan and Levantine being classified as different (but closely related) languages. The problem that I have seen when observing Moroccan and Algerian, however, is that most people still exaggerate their divergence from MSA and other dialects. Common misconceptions I have read and heard: 1) Moroccan and Algerian are not Arabic, but a creole language mixing French, Spanish, Arabic, and Berber; 2) Maghrebi has a small percentage of Arabic vocabulary; and 3) Maghrebi is significantly different from other dialects in terms of grammatical aspects. First off, Moroccan and Algerian are definitely still Arabic - their vocabulary, although having a higher presence of French and Berber than other dialects, is still overwhelmingly derived or directly related to the vocabulary of other dialects and MSA. Grammatically speaking, Maghrebi is not any more divergent from MSA than other dialects.
So what is it that makes Maghrebi (especially Moroccan and Algerian dialects) so unintelligible to speakers of the Mashriqi dialects? In my experience, it has definitely been the phonology. Compared to Mashriqi dialects, Maghrebi employs a lot more vowel deletion and the result is a higher presence of consonant clusters and more changes in emphasis. It doesn't help that Moroccans also speak relatively fast compared to Mashriqi speakers. Second, Berber vocabulary has a notable effect - moreso than French loan words, IMO. Berber loan words are not really present in Egyptian, Levantine, and other Mashriqi dialects, so it these that tend to cause the most trouble in comprehension.
In short: Dialects - especially between Mashriqi dialects - are closely related enough to be mutually intelligible. Exposure, however, is more important for non-native speakers. That being said, with a background in MSA and one other dialect, the rest are highly accessible.
EDIT: I've touched this topic in a few other threads, one of the most recent:
Arabic - MSA or dialect?
http://how-to-learn-any-language.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?T ID=33535&PN=3
Edited by Jappy58 on 07 October 2012 at 8:28pm
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