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(Not) speaking French in Montreal

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aabram
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 Message 1 of 14
25 February 2014 at 3:27pm | IP Logged 
I have a question about the prevalence of French in Quebec, particularly in Montreal.

As it happens I might be moving to Montreal for some period of time but my French is rudimentary. I'm already acquainting myself with French but I have no idea how much will I able to learn before landing there. What is the language situation in Montreal really like? What am I to expect living there, but speaking minimal French? At this moment I'm not yet concerning myself with differences between Quebecois and european French. Should I be?
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emk
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 Message 2 of 14
25 February 2014 at 4:13pm | IP Logged 
aabram wrote:
As it happens I might be moving to Montreal for some period of time but my French is rudimentary. I'm already acquainting myself with French but I have no idea how much will I able to learn before landing there. What is the language situation in Montreal really like? What am I to expect living there, but speaking minimal French?

There's a nice discussion here. Their conclusion: It's easy to get by as an English-speaking tourist, but if you're looking for a job, monolingual English speakers are at a substantial disadvantage, because the English-only jobs tend to be very competitive.

There are some areas around Montreal where almost everybody I meet is capable of a credible job in both languages, and language choice is largely about efficiency and politeness: who's going to do the extra work of speaking their L2?

aabram wrote:
At this moment I'm not yet concerning myself with differences between Quebecois and european French. Should I be?

You'll certainly have no problem speaking European French to people and making yourself understood. Listening comprehension is a bit harder. I never devoted any particular time to understanding the Quebec accent, and up until I was a very strong B2, I found it to be pretty incomprehensible. But once my listening comprehension was good enough to channel-surf on French television, the Quebec accent became much easier to understand. And for the most part, the only difference between "formal" Quebec French and European French seems to be the accent (and a few bits of vocabulary), at least in my limited personal experience. There's also a casual register which is supposedly very different, but it's not something I've run into very much around Montreal.

So advanced speakers of European French should adjust to Montreal fairly easily, but beginners may struggle to understand unless they make a special effort.

Anyway, this is just the perspective of somebody who visits Montreal every couple of months, and who hangs around in a very bilingual neighborhood. We have quite a few Montreal locals here who can give you better advice.

Edited by emk on 25 February 2014 at 4:22pm

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aabram
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 Message 3 of 14
25 February 2014 at 4:32pm | IP Logged 
Thanks for the input, I'm going to read that other thread you linked to. I'm not looking to enter local labour market there, but I may stay up to six months so I'm interested in general attitude since we're going to have to rent a flat, go shopping, deal with cable company, bank etc. Am I going to be looked down upon for not speaking French? I'm going to use it as an opportunity to learn French but I'm curious of how the whole thing is likely to turn out before I can actually speak somewhat decent French.

Edited by aabram on 25 February 2014 at 4:33pm

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emk
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 Message 4 of 14
25 February 2014 at 5:34pm | IP Logged 
aabram wrote:
Thanks for the input, I'm going to read that other thread you linked to. I'm not looking to enter local labour market there, but I may stay up to six months so I'm interested in general attitude since we're going to have to rent a flat, go shopping, deal with cable company, bank etc. Am I going to be looked down upon for not speaking French? I'm going to use it as an opportunity to learn French but I'm curious of how the whole thing is likely to turn out before I can actually speak somewhat decent French.

Again, I can only go by my personal experience, which is mostly shopping, eating out, one trip to the emergency room, some random conversations with a babysitter and random people on the street, etc., over the course of several years.

But in all that time, I've never had somebody from Montreal be rude to me about language issues. Not once. They've happily spoken English, even when it was a struggle for them, and they've been very polite about my efforts to speak French. If anything, their only failing is that they're sometimes too nice: Even when I'm completely at ease in French, they'll occasionally switch to English just to be welcoming.

As far as I can tell, most Montrealers seem to be operating under the following rules:

1. Try to never be rude or awkward about language choice.
2. Try to speak whichever language allows the most efficient communication.

Here's how it felt for me, back in the day:

Being a monolingual English speaker in Montreal is a bit like having nice neighbors who always invite you over for dinner. But you have no oven, so you can never return the favor. And even though they're terribly friendly about it, you start to feel bad, because you're often eating at their house, and they never eat at yours. Learning French is sort of like buying an oven, so you can invite the nice neighbors to your house, too. Of course you could just take their dinner invitations for granted, and act you had a right to always eat dinner at their house, in which case you might eventually wear out your welcome.

There was also a great blog post about Montreal language etiquette which is currently only available via the Wayback machine. It explained some of the day-to-day etiquette:

Quote:
How does bilingualism work? The etiquette is a mystery for those of us who come from monolingual places. In Montreal, the approach is actually very pragmatic, and I think the question of service in shops offers a good glimpse of how we muddle through. I’ve been meaning to write this up for a while, and this question from an American reader has spurred me into action.

Here then is a spectrum of greetings you are likely to encounter from staff in a Montreal shop, and what they mean:

Bonjour - I am probably French mother tongue and I prefer to speak French. I might not speak English very well.

Bonjour-Hi - I am perfectly bilingual and am happy to serve you in the language of your choice. Although I am probably from Quebec, I might not speak French as a first language.

Allô! - “Allô” is a tricky one as it sounds a lot like “Hello.” Sometimes counter staff use it to be ambiguous and will serve you in the language in which you respond. Sometimes, however, they are unilingual francophones who are attempting to be informal. In fact, as “Allô” is only used when answering the phone in the rest of the French-speaking world, it took your correspondant about a year to work out that it wasn’t an heavily accented “hello”! Bonjour is almost always the best response to an Allô.

No greeting - I am probably waiting for you to say Bonjour or Hi so I know which language you prefer (by the way, your editor considers this rude.) I am probably not French mother tongue.

bonjour-HIII!! - I am stressing the “HI” because although I can serve you in French (and am required to by law), it is not my first language and I would rather serve you in English.

Hi - I only speak English or I strongly prefer to speak English.

So here's politeness tip #1: The answer to "bonjour-hi" is "bonjour" or "hi", but never both. Otherwise you will drive the poor clerk nuts; they want you to choose. :-)

It's entirely possible that you may run into some situations where English isn't enough. But for the most part, I see people using English everywhere, and they don't seem to have many problems. In fact, as a student of French, your biggest problem will be finding opportunities to practice: until you reach ~B2, it will be hard to convince people to stick to French.

In your case, however, there's an extra wrinkle: You're not a native English speaker. I have definitely gotten the impression that some Montrealers are less than delighted by "allophones" who move to Montreal and who insist on speaking English:

Quote:
The day shift doctor who showed up in the morning didn’t speak French either. I don’t speak French I’m from Brazil, he told me, almost proud of himself.

I made him speak to me in Spanish. He got the point and dropped the grin.

If you ever run into this attitude, I suspect that a modest effort in French will go a long way towards getting on everybody's good side. Even though French speakers in Montreal are endlessly courteous about speaking English, it's good to remember that this is a courtesy, and nobody likes to be imposed on. On the bright side, you may find it easier to get Montrealers to stick to French, because your accent won't give you away as an English speaker.

Edited by emk on 25 February 2014 at 5:50pm

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beano
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 Message 5 of 14
26 February 2014 at 12:34am | IP Logged 
There are all these stereotypes and myths about how locals react when you attempt their language. If you believe the stories, the Dutch will point blank refuse to engage with you, the Germans will switch to perfect accent-free English the moment you mispronounce a word or misplace a preposition, the French will show contempt even if your French skills are better than their English, the Spanish will talk back to you but at twice the speed and volume, while their friends do the same simultaneously....and so on.

In the real world, of course, it's nothing like that. The vast majority of people are incredibly supportive of your attempts to fit into their society and will happily converse with you.
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lichtrausch
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 Message 6 of 14
26 February 2014 at 1:05am | IP Logged 
Quebec is the only place in the world I've ever encountered any negativity for not knowing the local language. I once asked in English for some directions at a gas station and the lady working there told me dead seriously "you should speak French in Quebec".
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luke
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 Message 7 of 14
26 February 2014 at 3:29am | IP Logged 
lichtrausch wrote:
Quebec is the only place in the world I've ever encountered any negativity for not
knowing the local language. I once asked in English for some directions at a gas station and the lady working
there told me dead seriously "you should speak French in Quebec".


A job in a gas station isn't one of those competitive ones emk was talking about.

Edited by luke on 26 February 2014 at 3:30am

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Spanky
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 Message 8 of 14
26 February 2014 at 4:38am | IP Logged 
lichtrausch wrote:
Quebec is the only place in the world I've ever encountered any
negativity for not knowing the local language. I once asked in English for some
directions at a gas station and the lady working there told me dead seriously "you
should speak French in Quebec".


I believe it is really important to recognize that there is a considerable difference
between Montréal and other parts of the province of Québec in terms of english/french
usage. Although I understand language issues are again becoming politicized recently by
the politicians, my own experiences with Montreal in the 1990s accords entirely with
those of emk.   The original poster was asking about Montreal; the answer would be
entirely different if he or she had been asking about Trois-Rivières, for example, or
even Quebec City.

To the original poster: Montreal is a great city, dress warmly if you will wintering
there, and if you value your safety never make fun of the local hockey team.



Edited by Spanky on 26 February 2014 at 4:40am



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